Betting on Nebbiolo in California

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Mr. Harvey’s Italian venture is completely different. He has his own name, weatherand Sonoma, he has two vineyards on Mount Etna where he grows grapes and makes wine together. salvo photoPlaying a very important role in the revival of traditional Etna viticulture and wine production in the last 25 years.

Mr. Harvey has always devoted himself to nebbiolo, the great grape particularly associated with Barolo and Barbaresco, but it was his discovery that sealed the Aeris agreement. He was in Italy with his wife 17 years ago, he told me, and stopped by a shop full of wines he had never tried before. One was the 2001 Pietra Marina by Benanti, an Etna Bianco Superiore made entirely of carricante by Mr.

“We had it and it was enlightening,” Mr. Harvey said as we walked through the younger rows of Sonoma carricante. “It was like a meeting between Grand Cru Burgundy and Grand Cru Alsace Riesling. It really fascinated me.”

He tracked down Mr. Foti and they met.

“We talked about Carricante,” Mr. Harvey recalled. “What blew my mind was how few, maybe 10 acres, were there in 2010.

“There were very few specimens and I was wondering, why don’t you plant some carricante? Salvo had a great plan but couldn’t afford it. I said, ‘Let’s talk.’

Until 2016, Mr. Foti and Mr. Harvey had a 15-acre carricante vineyard in Milo On the eastern face of Etna, the main carricante region.

“I hadn’t thought of having a vineyard, but I didn’t do it to make sense,” Mr. Harvey said.

Mr. Foti, whom Mr. Harvey called “the high priest of the native grapes”, was also searching for the high altitude old nerello mascalese vineyards in Etna. Harvey stepped in when he found the largely abandoned centuries-old vines at an altitude of 2,000 to 3,000 feet, near the town of Montelaguardia, on the north face of Etna. Aeris had another Etna bond.

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