Setting Points at a Fist Fight Festival in the Peruvian Andes


A light rain fell as they fought through a sea of ​​masked fighters to catch a glimpse of the middle ring. From a few meters away, I watched two local warriors pounding on each other with their bare fists.

Thousands of spectators stood in the stadium tribune surrounding the fighting pit, their eyes following every move. Applause broke out as one of the warriors fell to the ground with a clean blow. The winner, bleeding from his lip, threw his fists in the air to celebrate the victory before embracing his opponent.

It was Christmas Day, and the annual Andean martial festival known as Takanakuy was underway in the Peruvian Andes.

The crowd grew as a new contestant stepped into the ring: Yani Lopez, a woman from the town of Santo Tomás. That is, unlike her male peers who wore masks and frightening costumes, she wore an elegant red dress embroidered with flowers.

A friend had stepped in to challenge Vicentina Yallercco.

Takanakuy, meaning “to hit each other” in Quechua, an Indigenous language spoken in the Peruvian Andes, is a tradition unique to Peru’s remote Chumbivilcas Province. Small rural communities high in the Andes, many of which do not have regular access to law enforcement to resolve disputes, settle their bills with their fists in a public place once a year.

The ultimate goal is to start the new year peacefully. That’s why every fight – whether it’s about men, women or children – begins and ends with a hug.

Starting early on Christmas morning, thousands of locals gathered in Santo Tomás’ main square, dressed in elaborate costumes, dancing to traditional music, and sharing food.

While others joined from their homes, the crowd paraded into the town’s fighting stadium, where thousands of other participants and spectators from nearby villages awaited the start of the fights.

Spectators looking down from the stadium drank and ate while cheering on the best fighters from their area. Encouraged by alcohol, a group of men formed their own individual fighting circle. Some participants went out to resolve real complaints, while others just seemed to be fighting for the sport.

The festivities continued for the second day in the nearby village of Llique, where the fighting took place on the wide grassy plains.

I first heard about Takanakuy from Jero Gonzales, a Peruvian photographer with a passion for capturing Indigenous Andean culture. We met at a small bus stop on Christmas Eve. city ​​of CuscoWe swapped our phones back and forth to chat via Google Translate as we tucked into a full van and made our way through an endless series of green mountains for six hours.

Some traditionalists disapprove of women’s participation in Takanakuy. But in recent years, a growing number of women in Chumbivilcas are breaking with tradition and stepping up to fight in front of their communities.

For so many women to get into the ring – “this is something new,” said Jero. But most people understand that women have the right to participate, he added.

So and Vicentina are among them. After wrapping their wrists and shaking hands, the women circled the ring, punching each other and occasionally kicking.

Vicentina gave first and the referees immediately jumped between the women to end the fight.

Like all the other participants, they ended with a hug – and their grievances were resolved. They were ready to start the new year with a clean slate.

Mike Kai Chen A documentary photographer based in San Francisco. You can follow their work Instagram.





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