What Happens to Oaxaca If You Sell ‘Oaxaca’ in a Bottle?

“I never expected this kind of Columbus crusade,” said Bricia Lopez of Oaxaca, who has more than 100 entrees at Los Angeles restaurant Guelaguetza. Ms. Lopez resents hobbyists or investors who talk about “discovering” the soul. He said he likes the way El Silencio, which is owned by two Mexican citizens, has grown: in a …